The Powder House, Telluride – 1/1999

Located at 226 West Colorado Avenue in Telluride (tel. 728-3622), the Powder House was a turn-of-the-century arsenal for the mines, hence the name.

The Powder House version of Cioppino, the Portuguese fish stew ($22.95), is a bona fide feast: tender, yet chewy mussels, lobster tail, calamari, crab, tuna, salmon, swordfish and shrimp in an ambrosial tomato broth of onion, tomatoes, basil, celery and oregano with white and wild rice pilaf. A sweet tasting mixed green salad with toasted wheat berries, sunflower seeds and Italian vinaigrette proceeded the main course.

Several seafood appetizers, including escargots, smoked seafood platter and Cajun barbecued prawns, showcase the list of menu starters along with smoked game and Caesar salad. A half-dozen pasta selections ($14.95 – $16.95) feature fettuccine, angel hair pasta or ziti with seafood, salmon, chicken breast or artichoke hearts. House specialties and dinners ($14.95 – $22.95) include roast duckling or pheasant, Colorado rack of lamb, trout almondine, tournedos, stuffed quail, marinated elk, free-range chicken and veal scaloppini. The restaurant uses a variety of innovative sauces, such as rosemary, green peppercorn or a rich sherry demi-glace. Highlighting the exquisite homemade desserts (~$6) are chocolate mousse, strawberry shortcake, white chocolate hazelnut cheesecake, jumble berry crumble with fresh berries, mud pie, tiramisu and affogado – honey and vanilla ice cream mixed wit Frangelico and chilled cappuccino.

Those who bought the book Colorado Restaurants and Recipes by Benjamin James Bennis are entitled to receive a complimentary glass of wine with each entrée. The restaurant closes on April 10th.

~Karl Flesch
Lift Lines – January 1999